Fencing for Llamas
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Fencing
Llamas will often stay inside anything once they are familiar with their area. This trait is directly attributable to llamas' strong territorial nature. However, situations change, and llamas who were once content may suddenly show you that the fencing you thought was containing them is actually not strong enough, high enough, or safe enough.
Four feet is the minimum height for average use. Five feet is better, and is strongly recommended for separating llamas of opposite sexes, aggressive animals, and average jumpers. Genetically talented jumping llamas can clear barriers up to eight feet. Fortunately, these animals are relatively rare.
Just about every kind of fencing has been used to contain llamas; however, a number of common types pose significant danger or prove inadequate for some llamas:
Barbed wire is not only unnecessary, but potentially dangerous. Llama wool can catch and wrap around barbs, and may actually immobilize a woolly llama. The barbs can cut any llama's face, ears, and legs when he or she puts extremeties through or over the fencing purposely to eat or investigate, or accidently, such as in a scuffle.
Stiff fencing with openings large enough to allow legs and/or necks to pass through (such as cattle and hog panels) are dangerous and should not be used around some llamas, particularly males, late geldings, and crias.
Electric fencing will not deter a determined llama. Some llamas learn to ground the fence, or to at least take quick advantage of any "natural" grounding or power outage. Others simpy ignore the temporary discomfort of the electrical shock in order to get at what they want.
Fencing such as New Zealand high-tensile and smooth or barbed wire allows dogs and other predators (such as bears) to pass or push through. Even when electrified, these fences are llama death traps.
Welded wire will break as llamas rub against it. "Knotted" fencing such as field fence and "non-climb" are much safer and more economical choices in the long run.
"T-posts" can cause serious damage to a llama that stands up on his or her hind legs at the fence and comes down on a post top. You can buy plastic caps for the tops of t-posts.
We have been most satisfied with five-foot non-climb horse fencing for most situations. We prefer six-foot non-climb around trees and on the stud side of the double fenceline separating studs from females. We use treated round (peeler core) posts with a top rail for visibility and to keep the llamas from pushing down the top of the fence fabric. Although we use lightweight tube gates (some with a piece of hog panel welded into the bottom) in some areas, we prefer heavier steel gates with 2x4 mesh for llama safety whenever practical.
Some additional tips:
Llamas can run into and be seriously (or fatally) injured by low-visibility fencing. A good solution is to initially "flag" the fence until the llamas learn where it is. A more permanent and aesthetic solution is to add rails, either on the top or one on top and one in the middle of each section.
Intact llamas of opposite sexes are best separated by double fences at least ten feet apart and five or six feet high.
Territorial and aggressive llamas are the most difficult to contain, and require thoughtful management to avoid provoking them ... in addition to maxium strength fencing. Because both territorialism and aggression are heritable, castration is an important additional management tool.
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